As we embark on a new year, it's time to cast our gaze back at 2025 and celebrate the watches that truly captivated us with their unexpected brilliance. This selection isn't just about new models; it's about timepieces that challenged our perceptions, showcased remarkable artistry, and offered a refreshing take on watchmaking, exceeding every expectation we had.
Kicking off our roster of remarkable timepieces is the Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence in rose gold. This piece truly stood out, not just for its exquisite material but for its pioneering 'montre à guichet' display. Unlike traditional window watches that often employ a digital time display, Louis Vuitton's interpretation is distinctly innovative. It features two gracefully arched apertures for hours and minutes, where the hour disk rotates continuously, and the minute disk beneath it changes. The ingenuity lies in how the time is read: the hour numerals are reversed on the disk, ensuring that the preceding and upcoming hours are always visible alongside the current time, making for an intuitive yet unconventional reading experience. This thoughtful design, combined with its impressive craftsmanship, firmly placed it among the year's most delightful revelations.
The mechanical heart of this exceptional watch is the newly developed LFT MA01.01 caliber. This automatic movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and boasts a 45-hour power reserve. Its free-sprung balance and meticulously finished components, visible through the sapphire case back, reveal an 18K gold rotor adorned with perlage and blasted finishes. Encased within a classical round 37mm x 8mm rose gold body, the Tambour Convergence is replete with elegant details, from its refined lugs to its impeccable overall finishing, underscoring Louis Vuitton’s prowess in haute horlogerie.
Next, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold emerged as a highlight from Watches and Wonders 2025. This Reverso defied expectations by transforming a classic into a bold statement piece. While pink gold Reversos are not new, this particular model, with its captivating monochromatic aesthetic and matching mesh bracelet, commanded immediate attention. Its standout feature is a beautifully textured dial, complemented by a small seconds register at six o’clock. The dial's refined texture contrasts exquisitely with meticulously finished hour markers and sharp dauphine hands, all brought together by an applied rose gold logo. The combination creates a watch that is both stylish and sophisticated, yet distinctly assertive.
The most striking element of this Reverso is its handmade Milanese bracelet, an artisanal masterpiece requiring 16 meters of pink gold wire. This intricate construction not only offers exceptional comfort but also integrates a seamless sliding clasp for a perfect fit on the wrist. With its perfectly proportioned 27.4 × 45.6 × 7.56mm case and the reliable JLC caliber 822, this watch, priced at €44,800, sets a new benchmark for the Reverso line. Its unexpected grandeur left many, including seasoned enthusiasts, rethinking their perceptions of the iconic model, sparking a desire for a yellow gold counterpart that, while perhaps less surprising, would surely be equally stunning.
The Richard Mille RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat Terracotta Quartz TPT also made a significant impression. Breaking away from the brand's typical high-octane designs, this model redefined elegance with its unique terracotta quartz TPT case. While the RM 16-02 silhouette has existed since 2007, this iteration offers more than just a fresh color; it introduces advanced materials and an updated design that feels both contemporary and timeless. Its distinct brick-colored presence, especially when paired with a burgundy rubber strap, evokes a Mediterranean warmth, making it truly one-of-a-kind. The watch's case is constructed from 45-micron silica threads layered at 45-degree angles within a colored matrix, then heated, pressurized, and milled, resulting in a striking and durable exterior.
Powering this extraordinary timepiece is Richard Mille’s CRMA9 caliber, a movement that harmonizes perfectly with the case's unique aesthetic. The open-worked movement features a rectangular titanium baseplate mirroring the case shape, showcasing a complex arrangement of elements. With 67 chamfered openings and bridges crafted from colored titanium, the movement is a modern marvel of engineering and design. Its angular platinum winding rotor further enhances its visual appeal. Despite its considerable size, the RM 16-02, priced at €225,000, is a testament to Richard Mille’s innovative spirit, proving that surprise can indeed lead to profound admiration.
Our fourth surprising pick is not a wristwatch but a desk clock: the Rolex Submariner Date. This oversized interpretation of the iconic diver's watch surprised many with its faithful enlargement of the beloved Submariner design. The 80mm clock retains all the signature elements, from its glossy black dial with Chromalight-filled applied indexes to its black ceramic bezel with white markings. The familiar Rolex branding motif adorns the rehaut, though the dial text is simplified, featuring only the brand's name, the coronet, and "Submariner." This meticulous attention to detail ensures that the desk clock exudes the same quality and recognizable aesthetic as its wearable counterpart.
Crafted from heavy 316L steel, the clock boasts a substantial feel, revealing its superior production quality. Its two-part hemispherical design sits on a circular pedestal, allowing for easy rotation. Inside, the ana-digi quartz caliber 8335, with 30 jewels and a secular calendar, ensures accurate timekeeping and displays the current month and year on a small LCD screen on the back. The movement's fine finishing, including polished chamfers and Côtes de Genève, is revealed by disassembling the front part of the case. Priced at €10,320, this Rolex Submariner desk clock is more than an accessory; it's a conversation-starting centerpiece that offers a delightful and fun take on a horological icon.
Finally, the Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire, affectionately nicknamed "Licky the Horse," concludes our list as the most playful and surprising watch of the year. This timepiece showcases Hermès' unique blend of whimsy and technical expertise. The watch features a horse on its dial that mechanically extends its tongue with the push of a button at 9 o'clock. This delightful animation is inspired by Dimitri Rybaltchenko's Rocabar de Rire striped scarf, which depicts a brown horse with its tongue out. Housed in a 41mm white or rose gold Arceau case, known for its distinctive lugs, the watch’s vibrant dial is a celebration of artistry and mechanical ingenuity.
Beyond its playful facade, the Arceau Rocabar de Rire is a technical marvel. The automatic H1837 movement, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, provides a 50-hour power reserve, ample energy for the animated horse. With only 12 pieces produced, available in blue or green dial variations, this limited edition, priced at €163,000 in white gold and €168,000 in rose gold, offers its owners a priceless dose of unadulterated joy. It exemplifies how haute horlogerie can embrace humor and charm without compromising on craftsmanship or innovation, leaving a lasting impression of unexpected delight.